Post by geezerman on Oct 31, 2010 5:46:22 GMT -6
This is how I’m doing it. Maybe it will help or encourage others.
First, I’m basing all of this with Duplicolor sandable red primer.
I have a margarine tub handy full of baking soda and a spoon for applying soda to small areas. I first sprayed a WET coat on the surface I want to rust. Fender tops and cab roof were sprayed from directly above, avoiding getting any on the sides. This will enable a softer transition from the rust area to the non rust area, meaning no hard taped lines. Do one area at a time, this paint flashes fast and the baking soda has to get on before it dries, so dip or sprinkle immediately after getting the wet coat on.
Here, the roof top has been soda'd and resprayed with the primer, but the cowl top and fender tops are just in the coating of soda.
You see where I laid a piece of tape on the edge of the bed rails with a slight overhang. I sprayed straight down on the top edge of the fender avoiding a hard edge and getting paint and soda up next to the bed sides.
I gently used a soft brush to further feather the edges of the baking soda areas, and remove excess soda. When I had it pretty much as I wanted it, I then sprayed another wet coat to the soda to seal it in.
Cab roof shown here.
Next stage is to mask off the areas you want to leave rusty.
This is messy at times because the liquid mask dries quite fast and isn’t very maneuverable.
Also use a cheap or crappy brush, because it will be ruined. I am using a Grumbacher artists liquid mask here. I also have some from Micro Mark.
After a short drying time to be sure the thickest part of the mask has dried, it was time to mix some paint and bite the bullet.
Here’s a close-up of the hood.
Being care full not to touch the paint (I have used a custom mixed color with 1 Shot sign enamel), I peeled off the mask material.
Here are all of the parts waiting now to fully dry. Notice I have areas that have salt crystals still on. That and final touch up and effects will await artistic skills
I'll try to show some of how I blend all of the stuff into a half believable rust job in my next installment.
First, I’m basing all of this with Duplicolor sandable red primer.
I have a margarine tub handy full of baking soda and a spoon for applying soda to small areas. I first sprayed a WET coat on the surface I want to rust. Fender tops and cab roof were sprayed from directly above, avoiding getting any on the sides. This will enable a softer transition from the rust area to the non rust area, meaning no hard taped lines. Do one area at a time, this paint flashes fast and the baking soda has to get on before it dries, so dip or sprinkle immediately after getting the wet coat on.
Here, the roof top has been soda'd and resprayed with the primer, but the cowl top and fender tops are just in the coating of soda.
You see where I laid a piece of tape on the edge of the bed rails with a slight overhang. I sprayed straight down on the top edge of the fender avoiding a hard edge and getting paint and soda up next to the bed sides.
I gently used a soft brush to further feather the edges of the baking soda areas, and remove excess soda. When I had it pretty much as I wanted it, I then sprayed another wet coat to the soda to seal it in.
Cab roof shown here.
Next stage is to mask off the areas you want to leave rusty.
This is messy at times because the liquid mask dries quite fast and isn’t very maneuverable.
Also use a cheap or crappy brush, because it will be ruined. I am using a Grumbacher artists liquid mask here. I also have some from Micro Mark.
After a short drying time to be sure the thickest part of the mask has dried, it was time to mix some paint and bite the bullet.
Here’s a close-up of the hood.
Being care full not to touch the paint (I have used a custom mixed color with 1 Shot sign enamel), I peeled off the mask material.
Here are all of the parts waiting now to fully dry. Notice I have areas that have salt crystals still on. That and final touch up and effects will await artistic skills
I'll try to show some of how I blend all of the stuff into a half believable rust job in my next installment.